​The origins of Provencal tablecloths

The origins of Provencal Tablecloths

What we today regard as Provencal table cloths and fabrics have their origin not in France but rather in India. The colorful prints originated from East India in the 16th century. Jean-Baptiste Colbert (Minster of Finance under King Louis XIV) allowed free access into the Port of Marseille, and trade activity increased as imported goods arrive from the Indies. Among them, cotton fabrics with bright floral patterns with colorfast dyes. These so-called “Indiennes” were an instant success

Fabrics in use at the time

In 16th-century Europe, the fabrics that were in use at the time for the lower classes were are hemp, linen, wool and silk, and velvet for the wealthy. The vibrantly patterned cotton imports from India were a novelty suitable for all classes. The demand for these Indian block-printed fabrics spread quickly in the region, then throughout France.

The Jewish Provencal merchants, saw the success of the Indian fabrics and then began to copy them.. They use engraved wooden planks and copper patterned boards to create patterns similar to creations from India and Persia. Both manufacturing and commerce developed to supply the kingdom’s markets with production centres in Arles, Avignon, Marseille, Nimes and Aix-en-Provence.

Prohibition

The cotton supply developed quickly threatening the production of silks, linens and woollens. Protectionist measures were instituted in 1686. The manufacture, marketing and wearing of Indiennes lasted until 1759.

Avignon and Marseille

The indiennes manufacturers then turn to territories outside the kingdom to continue their trade. They settle in Avignon under the papal authority, to escape the royal edict. At the beginning of the century, Marseillais solicits and obtains the authorization to manufacture furnishing articles in white cotton canvas from Minister Colbert. Permission was granted as long as the goods are made and for sales in Marseille.